Canterbury Creek Gardens
  
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Canterbury Creek Gardens
 
A Chemical-Free Organic Garden Center
and Organic Micro Farm in Greater Cleveland
Home      Vegetable Cultural Information

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Spinach Emu – Slowest bolting smooth leaf spinach

A great spring variety, Emu is about 10 days slower to bolt than any other spinach variety.

SOWING DATES: Spinach germinates and grows best in cool soil. Begin sowing in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked – or plant transplants as early as possible. Summer sowing in soil over 85°F (30°C) risks low or erratic germination! Sow late in July into September for a fall crop. Spinach can also be planted from September until freeze-up for an early harvest the following spring; floating row covers offer effective winter protection.

CULTURE: For bunching and full size: Sow about 9-10 seeds/ft., 1/2" deep, rows 12-18" apart. Harvest spinach leaves when full size but before bolting. For baby leaf: Sow in a 2-4" wide band, 3/4" apart, about 40 seeds/ft. Clip small leaves in 3-5 weeks, depending on time of year and speed of growth. For a continuous supply, sow every 7 days. Using transplants saves 2-4 weeks in days to maturity.

Days to Maturity:   42
 

Snap Peas – Sugar  Sprint

Gourmet quality and no strings!

An almost stringless snap pea with excellent eating qualities. Diminished strings do not require removal before eating. 3" pods grow on 2' vines that do not need support – although we put 24-30” stakes or sticks vertically about every 12-18 inches for extra support.

CULTURE: Peas are a cool weather crop. Midsummer pickings are not as productive or sweet as cool or mild weather harvests. Plant the first sowing in early spring as soon as the soil can be worked. In well-drained soil, sow 1-1 1/2" apart in a 3" band (25 seeds/ft.), 1/2-1" deep. Make rows 12-18" apart for dwarf types, 4-6' apart if using a trellis. For easier picking, provide support at planting time with a trellis or put 24-30” stakes every 12-18 inches. Do not thin. Harvest when peas enlarge in the pods.

FALL CROP: Sow about 2 months before frost.

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   58

                       

Kale Starbor  –

A new innovation in kale!

Starbor Kale is a very short plant with uniform curly green leaves with good flavor. It can be harvested by cutting the entire plant or by harvesting individual leaves.

CULTURE: Kale is a relatively easy to grow plant. It is very cold tolerant – but can also be grown during the summer. Plants can be set out weeks before the last expected frost in the Spring and can be planted into late Summer for harvest well into Winter. Cooler temperatures improve eating quality. Plant 8-9” apart in rows 18” apart. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to increase production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

FALL/WINTER CROP: Sow about 2 months before frost.

Days to Maturity:  55

                                                                                                                                               

Kale Redbor  –

Beautiful and Great Tasting!

Redbor Kale is a tall plant with curly red leaves and excellent flavor. Red color and curling are enhanced by cold weather. Pretty enough to use for garnishing. Harvest individual leaves when they are still tender for best flavor.

CULTURE: Kale is a relatively easy to grow plant. It is very cold tolerant – but can also be grown during the summer. Plants can be set out weeks before the last expected frost in the Spring and can be planted into late Summer for harvest well into Winter. Cooler temperatures improve eating quality. Plant 8-9” apart in rows 18” apart. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to increase production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

FALL/WINTER CROP: Sow about 2 months before frost.

Days to Maturity:   55                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

Kale Red Russian  –

An heirloom variety with great flavor!

Red Russian kale has grayish, leaves with purple veins. Leaves are flat and tender with excellent flavor. Red color and flavor are enhanced by cold weather. Medium sized plants. Harvest individual leaves when they are still tender for best flavor. Can be used for salads and light cooking.

CULTURE: Kale is a relatively easy to grow plant. It is very cold tolerant – but can also be grown during the summer. Plants can be set out weeks before the last expected frost in the Spring and can be planted into late Summer for harvest well into Winter. Cooler temperatures improve eating quality. Plant 8-9” apart in rows 18” apart. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to increase production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

FALL/WINTER CROP: Sow about 2 months before frost.

Days to Maturity:   20 to baby, 50 to mature size.

 Kale Beira  –

The traditional variety for Portuguese Kale Soup!

Also called Portuguese cabbage or Sea kale. The taste and texture of the leaves are similar to collards. The thick, fleshy midribs can be peeled and eaten like celery or in soup.

CULTURE:  Large plants should be spaced about 2 ft. apart to achieve full size. Beira is a little more difficult to grow than most kale varieties. It will tolerate only light frosts and tends to get tipburn in hot weather. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to increase production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

FALL/WINTER CROP: Sow about 2 months before frost.

Days to Maturity:   80 to mature size.

Collards Champion  –

Slow bolting variety!

A compact variety that is slow to bolt. Dark green color with long, wavy, tender leaves.

CULTURE: Collards are relatively easy to grow plants. They are very cold tolerant – but can also be grown during the summer. Plants can be set out weeks before the last expected frost in the Spring and can be planted into late Summer for harvest well into Winter. Cooler temperatures improve eating quality. Plant 8-9” apart in rows 18” apart. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to increase production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

FALL/WINTER CROP: Sow about 2 months before frost.

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   60 to mature size.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           

Kohlrabi Kossak  –

Giant size and the best eating quality!

Kossak can reach a diameter of 8 in. and still be sweet, delicious and tender. Peel the woody skin prior to cooking or eating raw. Kossak kohlrabi is excellent when sliced thin and used for dipping – also excellent in soups. Kossak can also be stored for up to 4 months.

CULTURE: Kohlrabi prefers mild or cool temperatures. Good fertilization and rapid growth make for best eating. Plant about 8 in. apart in rows 12-18” apart. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

Days to Maturity:  80 days.

                                                                                                                                               

                                                                                                                                   

Lettuces

Lettuce is hardy and can be planted in early spring but makes its best growth at temperatures about 60 to 75   degrees. Sow every 3-4 weeks for a continuous supply – for longer harvests, choose varieties wisely especially in summer heat. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production.   

Leaf Lettuces

Leaf lettuces are easy to grow with a very tender texture. They form an open rosette rather than a closed head. Pick outer, lower leaves as needed for longest harvest period. Leaf lettuces can also be harvested as a whole head.                   

Romaine Lettuces

Romaine lettuces have a thick, crisp, juicy and sweet textures. They are relatively slow to bolt in summer heat. Pick outer, lower leaves as needed for longest harvest period. Romaine lettuces can also be harvested as a whole head.

Summer Crisp Lettuces

Summer Crisp lettuces are easy to grow, relatively tolerant of summer heat, and can be harvested anytime from baby stage like leaf lettuces. Very crisp (like romaine types), sweet and juicy without bitterness. Young plants are more open, like leaf lettuces, and mature to a more compact head like romaine types. Prefers richer soil and better fertility than leaf types.

Red Lollo Lettuce

Red Lollo lettuce is a beautiful, rich red and very curly or frilled leaf type. Red Lollo lettuce is a beautiful plant – the equal of any ornamental. Pick outer, lower leaves as needed for longest harvest period. Leaf lettuces can also be harvested as a whole head.

Red Butterhead Lettuce

Beautiful large red heads with nicely contrasting green centers. Excellent flavor and texture. Usually harvested as a whole head. 

Green Buttercrunch

Developed at Cornell University. Forms a small, open, but tightly bunched plant with dark green outer leaves and compact, lighter colored hearts. Usually harvested as a whole head.           

Wildfire Mix

An extremely colorful mix of deep reds and bright green varieties. Includes red and green oakleaves, red and green romaines, and red leaf varieties. Pick outer, lower leaves as needed for longest harvest period.

Chinese Cabbages

Chinese cabbages lend a sweet, juicy flavor and crisp texture to salads. They are easiest to grow in the cooling days of late summer and fall but grow quickly anytime when fertilizing every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer. Plant after the last frost date or plants may bolt prematurely. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

Mustard Greens

Mustard greens lend a spicy, mustardy or horseradish type zip to salads or sandwiches. They are easiest to grow in the cooler and shorter days of fall or early spring. Summer plantings should be protected from afternoon sun, but will still bolt quickly under stress like drying out or poor fertility. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

Yukina Savoy

Yukina is an Asian green somewhat like Bok Choy but with a smaller stem. It has a rich, spinach type flavor and can be grown as a summer replacement for spinach since it is more heat tolerant. Space 12-18 inches and harvest the entire plant at once or pick outer leaves like lettuces. Delicious steamed or stir fried. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

Red Leaf Vegetable Amaranth

An extremely nutritious summer green. Plants can get 4 to 5 feet tall – leaves can be harvested at any stage. One of the few plants that grows rapidly and easily even when temperatures get above 90 degrees. Relatively insect and disease free. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production.   

Chinese Kale

Large plants produce an abundance of jumbo sized florets that resemble mini heads of broccoli. They have an excellent, sweeter than broccoli flavor. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production.   

Radicchio

Our radicchio has one of the longest harvest periods of any green. We harvest continuously for up to 1 year from a spring planting when kept in a winter cold frame – or all summer outside. Rich, slightly bitter flavor – radicchio adds very attractive color and zip to salads. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production.   

Swiss Chard – Bright Lights

Milder taste than ordinary Swiss chard in a rainbow of colors. Somewhat less frost hardy than ordinary chard. Harvest when leaves are tender in eating raw. Do not plant too early, as exposure to cold temperatures may cause plants to bolt in summer.

Onions

CULTURE: The best onions are grown in full sun and fertile soils that are very rich in organic matter – but soil must also be well-drained (no standing water after rains). We grow our specialty onions ready to be transplanted from their cell packs directly into the garden. Cell packs contain multiple onions, but can be planted about 6” apart in rows 12” apart.

Onions should be planted early in April thru May. Onions make vegetative growth until days start to shorten in early July when bulbs start to swell. The larger the tops – the larger the bulbs will be. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production.

HARVEST: Onions are mature when the leaves will lose their color, weaken at the top of the bulb and flop over. Let most of your onion tops fall over by themselves - maybe 80% or 90% of them - then bend over the rest of the tops. Once they're down, leave the bulbs in the ground for another 10 days to two weeks to mature fully. It's not good to leave the onions in the ground for longer than two weeks after the tops die because they become open to organisms that can cause rot in storage, or they might even start growing again.

Pull your onions up on a sunny day if you can, then let them dry out in the sun for another day or so. This drying kills the root system at the bottom of each bulb. The roots will be like little brittle wires when they're dry.

Picking the right day to pull the onions can determine how well the onions will keep. If you harvest them after some rainy weather they'll have a lot more moisture in them and won't dry out as well.

SETS OR TRANSPLANTS:  Planting sets is easier, quicker and cheaper but varieties are limited to a few storage varieties. Storage varieties like Patterson or Prince, which are only grown from transplants are much larger size. Sweet onions like Candy and Superstar can only be grown from transplants and do not sore as well.

Onion Sets

Onions Sets can be planted up to mid-May for storage onions – or later for harvesting as “green onions”. Simply press into the soil (pointy side up) with the top of bulb at soil line. Smaller sets should be used since sets that are too large – usually over 1 inch -- will produce flowering onions and poor yields.

Transplant Varieties

Patterson

Jumbo size and excellent storage qualities make Patterson an excellent

main crop onion.

Prince

A very large storage onion with satiny skins that store well.

Sierra Blanca aka Superstar

An extremely popular and widely grown onion. Produce large, uniform, white skinned onions with mild, sweet flavor and thick rings. Not for long storage. Not as sweet as Vidalia types but those varieties cannot be grown this far north.

Candy

Slightly flattened mild and sweet yellow onions.

Hybrid Green Onions

Best tasting bunching onions with hybrid vigor. Green onions can be planted early for continued harvest or 2 or 3 plantings can be made for harvesting the entire onions. We cut down green onions about every 2 or 3 weeks during the summer. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production.

Leeks

King Richard  

With a more delicate and sweeter flavor than onions, leeks add a subtle touch to recipes without overpowering the other flavors that are present. Leeks also lend a creamy texture than onions when cooked.

King Richard is remarkable for size and earliness with excellent quality – in good soils and culture, stems can reach over a foot long. Can be harvested earlier for baby leeks – but if used this way plant more closely and thin to 6” apart.

Fresh leeks should be stored unwashed and untrimmed in the refrigerator, where they will keep fresh for between one and two weeks. Wrapping them loosely in a plastic bag will help them to retain moisture. Cooked leeks are highly perishable, and even when kept in the refrigerator, will only stay fresh for about two days. Leeks may be frozen after being blanched for two to three minutes, although they will lose some of their desirable taste and texture qualities. Leeks will keep in the freezer for about three months.

CULTURE: Beginning in late spring, plant 6”apart in rows 12-24 inches apart. Plant in holes 6 inches deep leaving tops 2” above the soil line. Do not firm soil – allow irrigation or rain to fill in the holes slowly. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production.

FALL/WINTER CROP: Plant transplants about 2 months before frost.

Days to Maturity:   75 to mature size.

Shallots

Plant in spring for late summer harvest of wonderful gourmet bulbs. Shallots have a mild taste that combines the flavor of a sweet onion with a touch of garlic. When you grow your own shallots, you will start to use them more in cooking and improve the flavor of many of your dishes.

STORAGE AND USES: If you have an abundance of shallots, store them as you would any allium in a cool, dry, dark place with plenty of air circulation. Knot them in clean pantyhose, hang from the ceiling in a dry garage, cellar or closet, and they can last up to 2 months (ours have lasted for several months). Or store in a hanging metal mesh basket. If they sprout, you can still use them. Remove the bitter green sprouts if you don't want a strong onion flavor. Many cooks choose to include the sprouts and use them much like chives.

Shallots may be chopped and frozen up to 3 months. However, when thawed, they will have the texture of a lightly sautéed shallot, so do not expect any crunch. This may actually be a time-saver in many recipes.

CULTURE: Plant 1 or 2 inches apart in rows 10-18” apart. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production. Shallots are easy to grow, a gourmet garden plant - and expensive to buy at the stores.

BEETS

CULTURE: High quality beets are grown quickly in rich, fertile soils. In general, cool temperatures produce the best flesh color and sweetest beets. Acute weather fluctuations will cause "zoning", white rings, in the roots. When beets mature in warm weather, they are lighter colored, have less sugar and have more pronounced color zoning in the roots.

TRANSPLANTING: Plant transplants 3" apart in rows 12-18" apart – or plant about 4 or 5 inches apart in raised beds or square foot gardens.

DIRECT SEEDING: Begin early sowings when soil has warmed somewhat after thawing. Sow in a 2-4" wide band, about 15 seeds/ft. (10/ft. if sown in single line), 1/2" deep, rows 12-18" apart. Thinning is not necessary. For a continuous supply of greens and small tender beets, sow seed at 2-week intervals until 8 weeks before regular heavy frosts are expected.

DISEASES: Keep beets well irrigated to prevent "scab", the same disorder that affects potatoes, causing raised brown rough spots on the mature roots. Internal breakdown or browning is most likely to occur in alkaline soils after prolonged hot, dry periods. This is caused by a deficiency of the nutrient boron. Rotate crops to prevent Cercospora leaf spot.

HARVEST AND STORAGE: Fork or undermine, lift plants, wash and cool in water, and store bunches 10 days at 32°F/0°C and 95% humidity.

WINTER STORAGE OF ROOTS: Sow about 10 weeks before heavy freeze is expected. Cut tops, wash, and store 6 months at 32°F (0°C) and 95% humidity.

Red Ace

The best all-around red beet. Rapid growth, sweet flavor, and tenderness are the characteristics of Red Ace. The round, smooth, deep red roots size early, with high uniformity. They maintain their sweet tenderness when larger and older. Medium tall, red-veined greens for bunching.

Touchstone Gold

Smooth, round roots with good internal color. Touchstone Gold has green petioles and leaves, and retains its golden color when cooked. Very good germination and excellent, sweet flavor. Compared to older varieties, Touchstone Gold has a better germ, more uniformly round roots, much smoother shoulders, and less zoning.

Radishes – Easter Egg mix

Multicolor mix of red, purple, and white. Easy to grow in just 30 days. Grow quickly with adequate moisture and good fertility. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production. For continuous harvest, make additional plantings every 1 to 2 weeks until temperatures average in the mid 60s F. Resume planting when weather cools in fall.

Potatoes

Freshly dug potatoes are one of the best garden treats. If you have eaten freshly harvested potatoes, you will understand -- if you have not, you are missing one of life’s little treasures. Our seed potatoes are all certified organic.

Potatoes require at least 6 hours of sun each day. They prefer well-drained, light, deep, loose soil, high in organic matter. Unlike most vegetables, potatoes perform best in acid soil with pH 4.8 - 5.5. (Scab is less of a problem at low pH. If pH is more than 6.0, use scab-resistant varieties.) They need plentiful, consistent moisture.

PREPARING SEED TUBERS: Cut the tubers into pieces roughly 1 1/2-2 oz. (1-1 1/4" diameter), with at least one "eye" on each piece. It is best to cut seed potatoes at least a day ahead of planting to allow the cut surfaces to dry. Potatoes are tolerant of cool soil and moderate frost. Late spring frosts can damage foliage, but growth will usually rebound quickly from underground parts. In early to midspring, plant cut or whole seed pieces 2-3" deep, 12" apart, in rows 30-36" apart.

PLANTING: Plant potted plants or seed potatoes 12” apart in rows 30-36” apart. When the plants are about a foot tall, hill soil about 6 to 8 inches around plants. Some growers hill a second time about 2 to 3 weeks later. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production.   

DISEASES: The best disease control is fertile soil and plenty of water when needed. Scab (scabby patches on potatoes) is largely avoided if soil is not allowed to become dry.

HARVEST AND STORAGE: You can remove young or new potatoes while they are still growing. Dig 12-18 inches away from plant and feel for potatoes in the soil. Remove a small new potato on each plant if you don't wish to reduce the overall yield. Harvest the entire plant if you want more than one potato per plant.

Harvest potatoes for storage through the winter after the tops have died. These potatoes will have a thicker skin than new potatoes that were dug before the tops died. The thicker skin is needed for a long storage and you will know the skin is thick enough if it does not slough off easily when you rub it.

Leave the potatoes in a shady spot to dry for a few hours before storing them in a dark place. Peel off all the green portions when preparing potatoes for a meal.

Red Potatoes

One of the best summer varieties for early and productive harvest and also stores well.

Yellow Hybrid Potatoes

More productive Yukon gold type potatoes. One of the best eating and sweetest potatoes – they also store well.

Russet Potatoes

Russet potatoes are the best for baking, home fries and hash browns – with a flaky flesh. Good storage.

Fingerling Potatoes

Russian Banana

Small, banana shaped tubers with a buff yellow skin and light yellow flesh. Late maturity, good yields, stores well.

French Fingerling

Rose-pink skin and waxy yellow flesh. Larger tubers are softer than other fingerlings when cooked.

Austrian Crescent

Similar the Russian Banana with smaller tubers. Firm flesh and they store well.

Ruby Crescent

Red skinned version of Austrian Crescent. Firmer when cooked than French Fingerlings.

Brussels Sprouts

Brussels sprouts are now considered to be one of our most beneficial foods. Their phytochemicals play an important role in our immune system and our elimination of toxins from our bodies.

Brussels sprouts are slow-growing, long-season vegetables belonging to the cabbage family. The sprouts look like miniature cabbages and form where the leaves meet the stems. Delay harvest until after hard frosts. Hard frosts improve their flavor. Freshly harvested, lightly steamed sprouts are a gourmet delight – unlike any that can be purchased.

CULTURE: The best Brussels sprouts are well irrigated, well fed, and grown in soils rich in organic matter. Plant transplants in late May through late June. Space plants 18 to 24 inches apart. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed. Plants have shallow root systems. Avoid even shallow cultivation. Mulch to protect roots, keep soil cool, reduce weed competition and conserve moisture.

DISEASES: Adhere strictly to a preventive program including: (1) long crop rotations with non-cruciferous crops, (2) clean starting mixes and outdoor seedbeds, and (3) strict sanitation practices.

HARVEST: After frost and until the end of December in most areas, and through the winter where cold is not severe. Pick when sprouts are firm and well formed. Break off the leaf below the sprout and snap off the sprout. The upper sprouts continue to form and enlarge as the lower ones are harvested.

WHOLE-STEM HARVESTING, MARKETING, AND TOPPING: For a once-over harvest (uniform maturity of most sprouts on the plant) and whole-stem marketing, the plants should be topped: pinch out the growing point (rosette of several small leaves at the top of the plant) when the lower sprouts are 1/2- 3/4" in diameter. A full stem of uniform-size sprouts will develop in about 4 weeks.

To freeze, simply clean, and using a sharp knife place an X in the base of each sprout. Blanch for a few minutes in boiling water, then plunge them into very cold water to cool. Stored in freezer bags they will keep for approximately six months.

Churchill Brussels Sprouts

The earliest Brussels sprouts. The flavorful, medium-green, smooth sprouts are large and mature remarkably early. Churchill is a vigorous, easy-to-grow variety for diverse climates. 90 days to beginning of harvest.

Broccoli

CULTURE: Cabbage (as well as cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, broccoli, and related brassicas) is a heavy feeder and does best in soils rich and organic matter and under very fertile conditions with adequate soil moisture throughout the growing period. While more heat-tolerant varieties are being developed, broccoli does not generally do well in hot weather; the best success being with spring and fall crops. Fertilize every 2 weeks with our organic fertilizer to improve production. Use our Dipel for cabbage loopers and our ladybugs for aphid control, if needed.

For fall crops, watch our emails in summer for planting times and announcements when transplants are available. Fall plantings can be more productive than spring plantings because they are slower to bolt and heads can grow larger.

SPLITTING: Early varieties may split or burst at maturity or from rapid new growth if rain or heavy irrigation follows a dry spell. Splitting may be partially avoided by keeping soil moist throughout growing period.

DISEASES: Adhere strictly to a preventive program including: (1) long crop rotations with non-cruciferous crops, (2) clean starting mixes and outdoor seedbeds, and (3) strict sanitation practices.

HARVEST: Before flower buds open, cut center head. Ice as soon as possible. Harvest secondary side shoots regularly to encourage continued production. If buds start to separate and the yellow petals inside start to show, harvest immediately. Choose varieties touted for their abundant side shoots to extend the harvest; once the central head is harvested, these side shoots will continue to produce small heads for weeks.

Bush Green Beans – Provider – Dependable and productive

The best early bean, Provider can be planted earlier than other beans because it germinates well in bad weather and cool soils. A very dependable, very productive, widely-adapted, stress-tolerant variety with good disease resistance. Resistant to several common bean viruses, this plant also stands up to downy mildew.

Succession-plant about every 3 weeks from early spring thru late summer for continued harvests. Bush snaps can be direct-sown after all danger of frost. Use transplants for earlier harvest or when space and time are valuable (like square foot gardens). When the harvest is complete, plow or till the plants back into the soil; they are excellent soil-builders! Great for canning and freezing because of heavy and concentrated harvest!

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   50

CULTURE: Prepare soil using compost or leaf humus. After last frost date, dig a 1” deep by 4-6 “  wide trench and sprinkle our fertilizer in to inoculate the soil with microbes. Sow seeds about 2" apart in rows 24" apart and cover. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-90°F (21-32°C). Plant when daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F (usually late May here), or risk poor germination. For a continuous supply make successive sowings every 2-3 weeks through mid-summer.

Bush Green Beans - Fresh Pick – Longer harvest and gourmet quality!

Considered one of the best tasting green beans with a flavor suggestive of pole beans. Fresh Pick's big plants tolerate hot weather and continue to produce over an extended period.

Succession-plant about every 3-4 weeks from early spring thru late summer for continued harvests. Bush snaps can be direct-sown after all danger of frost. Use transplants for earlier harvest or when space and time are valuable (like square foot gardens). When the harvest is complete, plow or till the plants back into the soil; they are excellent soil-builders!

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   53

CULTURE: Prepare soil using compost or leaf humus. After last frost date, dig a 1” deep by 4”-6“ wide trench and sprinkle our fertilizer in to inoculate the soil with microbes. Sow seeds about 2" apart in rows 24" apart and cover. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-90°F (21-32°C). Plant when daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F (usually late May here), or risk poor germination. For a continuous supply make successive sowings every 2-3 weeks through mid-summer.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                          

Carson Yellow Wax Beans

High yielding and flavorful. Carson's fancy, slim, 5 1/2" pods grow on vigorous and productive plants.

CULTURE: Prepare soil using compost or leaf humus. After last frost date, dig a 1” deep by 4”-6“ wide trench and sprinkle our fertilizer in to inoculate the soil with microbes. Sow seeds about 2" apart in rows 24" apart and cover. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-90°F (21-32°C). Plant when daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F (usually late May here), or risk poor germination. For a continuous supply make successive sowings every 2-3 weeks through mid-summer.                                                                                                                                                      

Harvest regularly to encourage new pod set.

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   52

Maxibel Filet Bean

High yields of slender, 7" green pods.

CULTURE: Filet beans are intended to be picked very slender, 1/8- 1/4" in diameter. A continuous yield of "extra fine" (1/4" diam.) grade is maintained by picking every 36-48 hours. Three days in hot weather or five days in cool weather is about the maximum delay between harvests to ensure an absence of oversized, tough beans. Otherwise grow just like ordinary bush beans. Not recommended for freezing or canning.

Prepare soil using compost or leaf humus. After last frost date, dig a 1” deep by 4”-6“ wide trench and sprinkle our fertilizer in to inoculate the soil with microbes. Sow seeds about 2" apart in rows 24" apart and cover. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-90°F (21-32°C). Plant when daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F (usually late May here), or risk poor germination. For a continuous supply make successive sowings every 2-3 weeks through mid-summer.         

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   50

Red Noodle Pole Bean

Beautiful dark burgundy pods. High yields of 16-20" long beans. Burgundy color will fade when cooked.

CULTURE: Needs trellis or support. Sow seeds 1" deep, spaced 3" apart in rows after soil temperature exceeds 60°F (16°C). If using poles, plant 7 seeds at the base of each pole.

Prepare soil using compost or leaf humus. After last frost date, dig a 1” deep by 4”-6“ wide trench and sprinkle our fertilizer in to inoculate the soil with microbes. Sow seeds about 2" apart in rows 24" apart and cover. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-90°F (21-32°C). Plant when daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F (usually late May here), or risk poor germination.

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   85

Garden of Eden Italian Flat Beans

Best tasting, green, Italian-style heirloom. Outstanding steamed or in stir fries.

The broad, flat pods are 6" long and retain their flavor even past maturity. Cook no longer than 3-5 minutes for best flavor and texture. The broad, flat pods are 6" long and retain their flavor even past maturity. Cook no longer than 3-5 minutes for best flavor and texture.

CULTURE: Sow seeds 1" deep, spaced 3" apart in rows 4' apart after soil temperature exceeds 60°F (16°C).

Prepare soil using compost or leaf humus. After last frost date, dig a 1” deep by 4”-6“ wide trench and sprinkle our fertilizer in to inoculate the soil with microbes. Sow seeds about 2" apart in rows 24" apart and cover. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-90°F (21-32°C). Plant when daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F (usually late May here), or risk poor germination.

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   65

Fordhook 242 Lima Beans

An AAS winner more than 60 years ago and still the standard for lima beans.

CULTURE: Lima beans like more heat than regular bush beans. Choose a warm, well-drained location. Sow about 3" apart, 1" deep in rows 18-36" apart, after soil is at least 75°F (24°C). Pick for fresh shelling when beans are plump and bulge inside pods.

Prepare soil using compost or leaf humus. After last frost date, dig a 1” deep by 4”-6“ wide trench and sprinkle our fertilizer in to inoculate the soil with microbes. Sow seeds about 2" apart in rows 24" apart and cover. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-90°F (21-32°C). Plant when daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F (usually late May here), or risk poor germination.

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   85

Fortex Pole Beans

The best tasting green bean.

CULTURE: Fortex's stringless pods are delicious at lengths from 7-11", even after the seeds have enlarged. Sow seeds 1" deep, spaced 3" apart in rows 4' apart after soil temperature exceeds 60°F (16°C). Dark green, early, and very productive with a long growing season.

Prepare soil using compost or leaf humus. After last frost date, dig a 1” deep by 4”-6“ wide trench and sprinkle our fertilizer in to inoculate the soil with microbes. Sow seeds about 2" apart in rows 24" apart and cover. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-90°F (21-32°C). Plant when daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F (usually late May here), or risk poor germination.

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   60

Butterbean Soybeans (Edamame)

Acclaimed in taste tests as the finest of green soybeans.

Sweet, buttery, and high yielding; Butterbeans are acclaimed as the finest in green vegetable soybeans. The 2-2 1/2' stocky plants are well-branched and stand well, producing a prolific set of large pods with tan pubescence. A good percentage of pods contain three large beans that are relatively easy to shell. Fresh Butterbeans should be everyone's treat in late summer.

CULTURE: After last frost date plant 6-10 seeds/ft., 1" deep, rows 15-30" apart. Most pods ripen at once. Clip plants near base when the beans are plump in the pods. Shelling tips: strip pods, rinse, and steam or boil about five minutes, or until tender. (Package for freezing at this point.)

Prepare soil using compost or leaf humus. After last frost date, dig a 1” deep by 4”-6“ wide trench and sprinkle our fertilizer in to inoculate the soil with microbes. Sow seeds about 2" apart in rows 24" apart and cover. Optimum soil temperature for germination is 70-90°F (21-32°C). Plant when daytime soil temperatures average at least 60°F (usually late May here), or risk poor germination.

Days to Maturity or Bloom:   90

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